
For three of the coldest days this season to date, diners brave the elements and sneak up to a secret location for dinner at Calgary's first pop-up restaurant. Reservations sold out almost immediately after bookings started online, and the location was disclosed only a few hours before the first seating.
"Do you work or live here?" my cab driver asked suspiciously as we pulled up to the dark industrial complex. On the second night of service, diners were instructed to enter from the back door marked with an 'X'. You would think that this is to boost the feeling of exclusivity, but it's really an example of the chefs'—Connie DeSousa and John Jackson of CHARCUT, Aviv Fried of Sidewalk Citizen Bakery and Grant Van Gameren, formerly of Toronto's The Black Hoof—attention to detail, in making sure that the food is served at the right temperature. Also consistent between the chefs is their passion for fresh, seasonal, and local ingredients. Fried makes artisanal, organic breads daily and delivers them by bike to minimize carbon footprint, while DeSousa, Jackson, and van Gameren aim to elevate simple and local ingredients.
The menu is well thought out, showcasing the strengths and philosophies of each chef. Crispy pig ear salad with soft cooked egg and crunchy thin toasts, open-faced croissant with lamb, tongue on brioche, and beef cheek with savoury scone all demonstrate the mastery of each chef in their respective areas. The perfectly seared foie gras and soft blood sausage was the highlight of my meal. Sorry vegetarians, you won't find much here besides hot vinegar beets with orange and thyme, and the two desserts.
If you couldn't get a reservation this time around, don't despair. You'll be happy to hear that there are more in the works for later this year, potentially in different cities. The beauty of pop-up restaurants is the ability to partner with chefs with different styles and specialties, creating a unique experience every time.
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