Jan
01
2009

Eliminate Autopilot

Photographer Bruce Kirkby blogs about the amazing results you can produce when you incorporate two different modes on your point-and-shoot camera

The vast majority of point-and-shoot users keep their camera set to auto. While there is nothing wrong with this, and most of the time you’ll still be able to produce great images, not exploring your settings simply limits your creative choices. It’s sort of like being an opera singer who only works in one key.

If you want to take the next step as a photographer and control the images you create more closely, take this easy journey into experimenting with your Aperture Priority (A) and Shutter Priority (S) modes. Soon, you’ll find yourself unconsciously adjusting to things like your subject’s distance and movement.

APERTURE PRIORITY MODE

Your aperture affects your depth of field, or the portion of your image that is in focus. It can range from a few inches to a few hundred metres.

Landscapes generally look better with big depths of field (i.e. everything from rocks and flowers in the foreground to a distant horizon with clouds in sharp focus). To achieve this, flip your camera to “A” mode and set the number to 16 or bigger.

Portraits often look more pleasing with a shallow depth of field, wherein your subject’s face is sharp but everything behind them is blurred. To achieve this, enter “A” mode and choose the smallest possible number value—5.6 will work okay; 4 or 2.8 is even better.

SHUTTER PRIORITY MODE

Slow or fast shutter speeds can be used to effectively blur or freeze the action in your viewfinder.

If you can’t freeze fast action using auto, set your camera to “S” mode and choose the biggest number you can—250 will do; 500 or 1,000 is ideal.

To record blurred motion (ie. a waterfall or a soccer ball), experiment with small numbers in “S” mode. Setting at 15 (or 1/15th of a second) is a good starting place. Not enough blur? Try 8 or 4. And remember, you’ll need to use a tripod or be braced against something solid, or else your entire image will appear blurred, not just the moving subject.

Another creative option is to try panning: follow the motion of a running child, horse or car in the viewfinder as you release the shutter, yielding a sharp subject and blurred background.

Experimenting will allow you to better understand the effects of shutter speed and aperture. Try taking the same shot at different depths of field—f2.2, f2.8 and so on. You may not see the difference on your camera’s monitor, but you’ll be amazed when you see the images on your computer.

More Articles

Post new comment

The content of this field is kept private and will not be shown publicly.