
February 6 is Bob Marley’s birthday, but on the Zion bus that rattles up a jumble of rickety roads from Ocho Rios to his Jamaican birthplace at Nine Mile—every tour is a toast to the reggae king. Painted in psychedelic colours, the ceiling of the old school bus is shellacked with album covers, photos, quotes, ticket stubs—souvenirs of Marley’s too-short life. He died of cancer at 36 years of age, but not before producing 104 songs or 21 albums.
Spend five hours with Zion guide Gary Dalling, and you’ll discover how Marley took Jamaica’s complicated history and reshaped it into focused complex music that aptly reflected the country’s reality but shot it through with magic. He was a musical magic realist, a “Natural Mystic,” says Dalling, as he pumps up the bus’s stereo system with “Jamming”.
“He put . . . this one man did—who spent the first 13 years of his life in a two-room hut with his mother— Jamaica on the map,” says Dalling, before he launches into a musical history tour on the bus. The horn blares around blind corners that zigzag every 200 ft., but the music’s sinuous beat keeps pumping as we grind our way up 3,500 ft., seducing us into a trance as we watch rural Jamaica roll by. Checkers of red earth (Jamaica exports bauxite around the world), groves of coconut palm trees, scrawny goats, blackened jerk drums and uniformed school children line the roads—the latter cheering us on with the raised index finger salute that Marley made so famous.
Nesta Robert Marley, who was born in Jamaica in 1945 and died in Miami in 1981, would have turned 67 today. Like the island on which he was born, he was a man of many names—Duppy Conquerer (for his power over the spirit world), the Small Axe (who can cut down the big tree) and Soul Rebel. For a spell, disenchanted with his struggles in the cutthroat Jamaican music scene, he lived in Delaware, U.S.A., worked as a welder in an auto plant and went by the alias of Donald. It was soon after that that he returned to Jamaica and embraced his destiny as a music superstar as well as the name we now know him by—Bob Marley.
Dalling cranks up “Is This Love” and explains why the Blue Mountains are so lush (22 inches of rain compared to the coast which receives 60 inches a year), how nine species of hummingbirds live in Jamaica, how Bob’s father died when he was 10, why he married Rita at 19, how he left behind 11 or 12 children, how his stepfather helped him produce his first album and so forth.
A stop at the tiny outpost of Clairemont loads us up with trinkets, Red Stripe beer and a spicy meat patty before we’re back on the bus for the last leg through the mountains to Nine Mile. Here, in this tiny lush village, we are met by another Rastafarian guide who leads us past the locals who are hawking “freshly picked produce” in the car park to a bar where they’re shilling rasta-striped shooters (Grenadine, Crème de Menthe, banana liqueur and Sambuca) for $13 a pop. Get beyond this bit and the mausoleum tour gets even more entertaining. A small museum showcases numerous gold albums, newspaper clippings and photos galore before we’re steered up a path to the Marley house. That’s where our guide reenacts classic Bob moments by sitting on his meditation rock, poking into his two-room hut and showing us the eclectic offerings left beside the two tombs, for Bob and his mother.
It’s the sort of tour any reggae fan will cherish. After lunching on Jamaican Jerk and the proverbial rice and beans our bus load had one of those kumbi-ah moments and actually swayed to “Turn Your Lights Down Low.” That particular song went down so sweetly . . . sort of like mango juice. For every moment in life, or at least on that tour, there seems to be a Marley song that fit.
Several tour companies in Jamaica operate Bob Marley tours. Hard core fans can visit Marley’s other home and museum in Kingston. We stuck to this tour in the northern part of Jamaica. Some use open jeeps with benches to sit on—ours, by comparison, was a comfortable school bus. We booked the Zion Bus Tour through Island Routes Adventure Tours available at all Sandals and Beaches resorts.
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