When the North Wind does it worst in Montreal, taking a frozen January day from frigid to excruciating, I can think of no better way to warm up than at a Scandinavian-style spa.



So it seemed fitting that my fiance and I visited the new Bota Bota Spa Sur L’eau, located on an old, decommissioned ship anchored in the Old Port, on a day when the high was -18˚C.



As we approached, I burrowed deeper into my parka, vaguely aware that I had lost feeling in my nose. I could just make out figures in white robes scurrying across the steel deck of the ship as steam from the hot tub curled in the air. “Warmth, ahoy!” I said.

Making Waves in the Old Port

For decades, the Bota-Bota ship worked hard in unglamorous roles, serving first as a ferry, then as a showboat during Expo ’67 before being abandoned in 2008. Then the make-over artists at Sid Lee Architecture got their hands on the boat and turned it from ugly duckling into sophisticated black swan.



Now, Bota-Bota floats like a Dark Architectural Avenger against the backdrop of the curiously boxy Habitat ’67 building and the dreary grain elevators of Old Montreal. It’s accessible only by a quaint pedestrian bridge, which creaks charmingly.



Aboard, the vessel is all sleek black hallways and golden wood floors, with staff dressed in chic black pants and sailor-like striped black and white shirts. Nautical design features include porthole window seats and metal-caged bulbs.

In the Heat (and Cold) of the Moment

Scattered over the top three levels of the 170-foot vessel are the steam room, sauna, and whirlpools that make up the hot portion of the water circuit.



Soak up the heat of the sauna while gazing over a perfectly-framed picture of Old Montreal, enjoy the steam room, or brave the weather and dip into the outdoor hot tubs, which glows with alternating red, blue and purple lights.



Next, immerse yourself in the cool outdoor plunge pool or duck under a cold shower inside for a few seconds. Complete the cycle by wrapping up in a robe and relaxing in a bean bag chair on the main deck inside. Fifteen minutes later, do it all again. The outcome is profound relaxation and a fountain of inner warmth that stays with you all day.

Whatever Floats Your Boat

In addition to the extremely soothing water circuit, Bota-Bota offers yoga classes (free with your pass to the baths) and a number of treatments, ranging from massage therapy to facials (starting at $85) to body scrubs (starting at $60). I relaxed into a manicure ($30) in the colourful treatment room (soon to be a cocktail lounge) at the bow of the ship, floor-to-ceiling windows giving me a gorgeous view of Old Montreal.

Batten Down the Hatches

At the end of my time at the spa, I handed in my robe and towel, and pulled my toque down over my ears. “I don’t want to go back out there,” I sighed. My fiance nodded. “But we’re all in the same boat,” he assured me.

Photo credits: Sid Lee & Mathieu Labelle