Chesterman's beauty is gripping. And unlike most beaches in Canada, it mesmerizes visitors and locals year-round, from slicker-clad storm-watchers in February to grinning surfers in August paddling out outwards its southern break.

This same beauty has caused epic land battles, as the isolation that begat fleeing draft-dodgers and searchers looking for community soon bowed to the omnipresent tentacles of gentrification.

The Islanders who’ve lived rent-free like nymphs among the Tolkienesque rainforest for half a century were ordered off the land, or sold out to wealthier Johnny-comes-latelies with the designations of CEO and realtor and surnames like Travolta and McLachlan.

Still, there’s no room for bitterness when walking across the sandpit towards secluded Frank Island, knowing that the next landmass beyond belongs to Japan.

LUNCH

SoBo: the magical purple lunch truck expanded to a sit-down affair last year…something to do with the fish taco being a religious experience.
(205) 725-2341

MAKE IT A WEEKEND

If there’s room, splurge at the Wickaninnish Inn (800-333-4604), the internationally lauded lodge and spa on Chesterman’s northern promontory.

LOCATION

From Comox head south on the Trans-Canada, then west on Highway 4. At the Tofino-Ucluelet junction, go right and continue out of the Pacific Rim National Park, passing the Clayquot-Orca Lodge. Take the next left and look for the park lot.