For the First Nations people who have lived there for centuries, Esquimalt means “place of shoaling waters.” For most locals, it’s long meant “sketchy.” But beyond the bingo hall and pawnshop, two vast and craggy waterfront parks drown out the urban element.

Esquimalt’s vast leisure options are a source of pride to its middle-class residents and the 4,200 naval personnel who work at CFB Esquimalt, the Canadian Navy’s West Coast headquarters.

Things are hopping this month all over the area, starting with the Canadian Naval Centennial from June 9 to 14, when seven navy fleets from the U.S. and the Indo-Pacific region will gather in Esquimalt Harbour as part of the International Fleet Review. Also don’t miss the annual pirate-themed Buccaneer Days from June 11 to 13, with midway rides, live music and fireworks.

Here are my favourite places in Esquimalt:
 

CFB Esquimalt Naval and Military Museum

Retrace Canada’s naval history and prowess, important figures and impressive ships. Kids love the interactive Oriole Children’s Gallery.

Sunnyside Cafe

This is the neighbourhood’s all-day breakfast go-to spot, tucked under a motorcycle shop and dance studio on the north (and sunny) side of Esquimalt Road. The easygoing menu includes several variations of locally themed eggs Benny, huevos rancheros big enough for two, soups and sandwiches, alongside liberal refills of organic Salt Spring Coffee.

Vietnam Garden

Chef Ken Yu’s predominantly Vietnamese menu—with some Chinese and Thai staples thrown in—is delicious and generous, especially the Pho combos. But what’s truly remarkable about this restaurant is the friendly, genuine atmosphere. Yu and his wife, Shelly, carefully tend to all patrons, including artist Ted Harrison, a regular who inspires Yu’s own displayed paintings.

Saxe Point Park

Split between densely forested, dog-friendly trails and vast manicured lawns with fragrant gardens, Saxe Point Park is a wildly civilized place to spend the early evening as the sun gilds the Olympic Mountains across the Strait of Juan de Fuca.

Macaulay Point Park

Aside from the frequent buzz of float-planes descending into the Victoria Harbour, this clifftop park is a trip back in time. Seascape pathways lead through windswept brush to reveal the former military rampart’s old bunkers and lookouts.

Blue Nile East African Restaurant

Esquimalt is the last place you’d expect to find an East African restaurant, but the mix of interesting flavours and organic ingredients coax people from all over to its tiny strip-mall location. The broad menu features meat, vegetarian and gluten-free selections, Ethiopian coffee and dessert.