Exploring Lucayan National Park

by Dan James
February 5th, 2010

Lucayan National Park (Photo: Dan James)
Lucayan National Park (Photo: Dan James)

Kayak, hike and swim your way through all six of Grand Bahama’s ecosystems and the largest cave system in the Bahamas

Gliding beneath a canopy of entwined mangrove trees, my kayak gently pulls me along Gold Rock Creek by the receding tide. As I gaze at the retreating silhouette of a great blue heron, I can’t imagine a better way to tour Lucayan National Park

From mangrove swamps to underground caves, the 16-hectare national park encompasses all six ecosystems found on Grand Bahama. It’s hard to believe such varied marine and animal life is a mere 30 kilometres from Freeport—the island’s bustling city.



Paddling next to me down the brackish creek (a crystal clear mix of tidal saltwater and freshwater river) Chad, the Grand Bahama Nature Tours’ guide, is dishing out fact after fact about the park and pointing out the many sights.

But there is no sense of hurry, overload or effort. In Chad’s own words: “Today is about chillin’, take your time.”

Gold Rock Beach



After 90 leisurely minutes, the mangrove’s tunnels and ponds empty out to the sea and it’s a quick bus ride to Gold Rock Beach and lunch. You’ll have company—Disneyesque raccoons frequent the picnic areas, but have no fear: Grand Bahama is rabies-free and a few bread crusts will leave the bandits content.

At low tide, Gold Rock unveils rippling sand that was featured in both Pirates of the Caribbean sequels. Its privacy is also a rare treasure, so channel your inner pirate and steal a few moments to sun and swim in a seclusion not to be found on resort properties.

Wetlands Education on the Boardwalk



After the beach, it’s off to the boardwalk that traverses the mangrove swamp for a quick education on the importance of the wetlands, and a chance to feed the fish (remember to save some bread from the raccoons).

Rebuilt in 2009 after damage caused by successive hurricanes in 2004 and 2005, the new 183-metre boardwalk once again allows easy access to the wetlands and the beach. There are also educational placards scattered about for those who choose to tour the park sans guide.

Grand Bahama Caves

Continuing north away from both beach and boardwalk is the entrance to Ben’s Cave. It’s so named for Ben Rose, the pioneering dive master who helped explore the underwater cave system to which it leads.
 
For non-divers, Ben’s Cave can be explored from raised walkways and offers a glimpse into the subterranean home of migratory bats and the blind Remipedia, a highly specialized type of crustacean adapted to the darkness.

The trail leads on to the Burial Mound Cave and a true link to the island’s past. The burial cave serves as the final resting place for several Lucayan Indians, the original inhabitants of Grand Bahama prior to Christopher Columbus’ arrival and their subsequent decimation.
 
Their skeletal remains were discovered perfectly preserved in two metres of water by archeologists in 1986. Initially removed for study, most of the bones have now been returned to the cave.

About Grand Bahama Nature Tours

The Lucayan National Park Kayak Nature & Cave Tour costs US$79. It includes pickup and transportation to and from the park; all necessary equipment for guided kayaking; nature tour; visit to caves; and lunch on Gold Rock Beach. Phone 1-866-440-4542.

Getting There On Your Own

Exit the Freeport/Lucaya area heading west on the East Sunrise Hwy, then turn right on to the Grand Bahama Hwy. Continue west for approximately another 18 km to the park entrance, change rooms and washrooms. Entrance to the park costs US$3.

The cave system is a short hike north of the highway. The creek, boardwalk and beach are located south of the highway. For more information, contact the Rand Nature Centre at 242-352-5438.

Map

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  1. Lucayan National Park

  2. Gold Rock Creek

  3. Gold Rock Beach

Contributors

Dan James

Dan James

Dan James is a native Calgarian, avid snowboarder and well-travelled sailor. Surviving close encounters with reefs, snowy trees and coffee-deprived editors, he did a six-month tour of duty as up!'s intern in 2009.

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