Family Fame

A location cradled by five bowls that funnel into one convenient area, with plenty of on-hill lodging, has made Fernie one of the top picks for Calgary-based families over the past decade. The snow’s not bad, either. Time your trip right and you’ll be choking on the lightest, driest snow that falls in Western Canada, with an average snowfall of nine metres (29 ft.). Where a few years ago the base village felt like Deadwood in winter, there are now plenty of amenities and a handful of restos. Only five kilometres away from the resort is the town of Fernie itself, with a mining-past vibe that’s been playfully yupped up. We call that character.

Top Runs

Photo by Henry Georgi.

There’s plenty of gentle, rolling terrain and wide-open runs for the small fry just off the Great Bear Express, Deer Chair and the Elk Quad. The bumps, fall-line rippers and tree-lined chutes that make Fernie so famous will keep families and teens whooping as they ski endless lines in Currie and Lizard bowls. Family lessons and two free daily mountain tours are your best bet if you’re a newbie to this resort. Powder hounds should treat themselves to one of North America’s top cat-skiing operations at nearby Island Lake Lodge (rated one of the best places to stay by National Geographic Traveler).

Family Eats

More than 50 per cent of Fernie’s on-hill accommodations are equipped with kitchens, so it’s not unusual to find near-empty restaurants at the base, once Mogul Smokers are downed at the Griz Bar. The majority of skiers who want to eat out head to downtown Fernie, where the range—from Yam Goya’s (there’s always a lineup at this sushi bar) and Mezzaluna’s (try the langostini with ricotta stuffed ‘shrooms, and let the kids play in a special area), to Curry Bowl and the Brick House Bar & Grill (upscale pub fare) is surprisingly vast for a town of 4,500 residents. Our No.1 pick for atmosphere and eclectic menu is Picnic, a funky, renovated livery with exposed stone and brick walls.

Ski School

Little tots love the Mini Moose area that features cartoon cut-outs, a Magic Carpet, an igloo and all sorts of playful obstacles. New last year was the family ski lesson where two adults and up to three kids can get coached by a pro. Not only does everyone’s skiing improve in this program, but parents leave a little wiser in teaching techniques that work best with budding racers.

Real Deals

Avoid prime time (Christmas and spring break) and you’ll find deals galore. Visit Fernie Tourism where plenty of Kids Ski Free packages get posted, as do discounts on lodging, lessons and camps.

Après-ski, Family-style

Themed events for kids (crafts on Wednesdays, movies Fridays, a cowboy camp on Saturdays) are offered at the resort, but not until you head downtown will you discover what makes Fernie one of Outside magazine’s top towns to live in. It’s real, a little bit gritty and doesn’t cater solely to skiers and weekend warriors. If you don’t believe me, belly up to the bar at the Fernie Hotel where locals in wrinkled overalls and work boots gather for a pint and a platter of fish ’n chips. The “real” part is also aptly explained in the Fernie Museum (a converted 1910 bank) that’s loaded with great archival shots of skiers from the 1940s, the town’s official bid for the 1968 Winter Olympics, coal mining paraphernalia and newspaper clippings that tell the legends of Griz and the Ghostrider. Parents in need of a kid-free night can hire a babysitter at babysitterfernie.com.

This month, WestJet flies to Calgary 79 times daily from 34 Canadian, U.S. and international cities.

Related links:

Ultimate Ski Guide Survey

Perfect tunes for your skiing and riding soundtrack