The question of whether or not I have ever been in love is a complicated one.

But I can honestly say, without any shred of doubt, that the most romantic nights of my life have been spent engulfed in the sultry sway of Havana nights.

I have written this unique city for many years as a travel writer and, during the course of a three-year whirlwind romance with a Habanera dancer, spent many nights in the city’s thriving nightclubs and intimate cabarets.

Her adoration of the Cuban arts led me through countless cultural enclaves throughout the city that embrace the country’s rich history of music and the arts, from bolero to rumba, salsa, timba, jazz and Cuban son.

More Than Just a Day Trip

One of the most intriguing aspects that sets Havana apart from other struggling cities is the sharp contrast between the city’s crumbling façade and the passion and vibrancy of its people.

Music emanates from storefronts, restaurants and residential areas, 24/7. This is a city that refuses to wallow in its hardships.

Far removed from the white sandy beaches of the country’s tourist regions, a typical Havana experience generally consists of a day trip to Old Havana, with lunch, a tour of a cigar factory and a walking tour that eludes the city’s heart and soul.

But then you're back on the bus, heading to the plush confines of your resort.

In a city with streets much safer than those of most continental metropolises, I highly recommend an overnight stay in one of Havana’s finest hotels, with at least 24 hours spent indulging in the city’s magic.

The Hemmingway Trail

My fascination with Ernest Hemmingway’s Cuban legacy has combined two of my greatest passions: writing and Cuba.

I have wined and dined with some of “Papa’s” former cronies and have followed humbly in his footsteps throughout the city of Havana.

His life and legacy are engrained in the streets he roamed between 1940 and 1960, from La Floridita, a bar on the outskirts of Old Havana, to La Bodeguita del Medio, where his life is told through the black and white photos that line its walls.

Old Havana is also home to Hotel Ambos Mundo, Hemingway’s first address in Cuba and a locale where I often enjoy afternoon mojitos on the rooftop terrace.

When Night Falls

But when the sun sets over the bay, the city transforms as Habaneros gather along the sea wall to socialize over a bottle of rum.

As the evening progresses, the clubs heat up as the country’s top performers take to stages throughout the city.

Fourteen-piece salsa bands dazzle the minions, who dance in unison in a fashion that twists both the spine and the imagination to equalling degrees.

Where to Go

From nightclubs to cabarets, and from cantinas to cafés, there is no shortage of Havana venues where you can find live music and dancing on any given night.

While exploring the city and discovering hidden gems can be half the fun, here are some notable Havana hotspots that are certainly worth a look.

Live Shows

Casa de La Música Havana

Set in a restored movie theatre in the Centro Habana district, this is one of my favourite venues for catching the hottest acts in the country. A large stage faces a wide-open dance floor that really gets jumping on the weekends. Entrance fees for top acts can be approximately 20 CUC ($21.64), with reasonable prices for drinks.

Casa de la Música Miramar

The original Casa de la Música, this venue is one of the city’s premiere venues for salsa and son Cubano. The club is located in the Miramar district, home to most international embassies, as well as some of the most upscale residential areas in Havana.

Dancing

El Turquino

Located on the top floor of the centrally-located Habana Libre hotel, Turquino features a retractable roof for dancing under the stars. Also offers great views of Havana at night.

Macumba Habana

Macumba offers a great mix of Cubans and tourists. The club is located in the surroundings of La Giraldilla, a garden restaurant, and offers multiple dance floors, a large stage and a thriving atmosphere.

Floorshows

Cabaret Tropicana

The world-famous Tropicana is home to Cuba’s most extravagant floorshow and is geared towards the international visitor. The prices are high, but the outdoor tropical garden venue features the best dancers in the country.

Cabaret Parisien

What the Tropicana offers on a grander scale, Cabaret Parisien delivers in the centrally-located, cozy confines of the historic Hotel Nacional, the old stomping grounds of gangster Lucky Luciano.

Salon Rojo

This historic venue has had its ups and downs, but it is back to thriving as a classic Havana setting for music and lavish floorshows. Great alternative to the pricier Tropicana and Cabaret Parisien.

Habana Café

A more authentic version of the Hard Rock Café, this restaurant/club is a throwback to the Cuba of the 40s and 50s, filled with memorabilia of performers, city views and even an airplane! The menu is very much like what you might find at a Hard Rock Café, with the added draw of stage shows ranging from dancers and musicians, to famous singers.

Cuban Roots

El Gato Tuerto

Once the pre-revolutionary hub of intellectuals and Cuba’s Bohemian crowd, El Gato Tuerto (The One-Eyed Cat) is a throwback to the roots of bolero and Cuban son, with an intimate atmosphere and dining options.

Cuban Jazz

Jazz Café

Overlooking the city’s famous Malecon (in english, sea wall), this jazz bar is located on top of a shopping arcade. The venue hosts some of Cuba’s top jazz performers, including Cesar Lopez, El Greco, Oscar Valdes and Bobby Carcassés.

Main photo: ozzadavies

All other photos: David Pye and iStock