RETRO COOL IS what draws people to Palm Springs, a town so hot that mist machines squirt passersby on sidewalks, and the place L.A. urbanites are flocking to in a desperate attempt to flee the smog.

To chill-out yourself, hit the 165-room Hotel Zoso, located one block from Palm Canyon Drive and within walking distance of downtown. The doors of the former Marriott [with forgivable pyramid-inspired architecture] open to a cavernous lobby, all neutral décor, faux snakeskin sofas and plush armchairs. A lobby bar and the in-house café-style restaurant called Eatz serve up basic food and drinks, as well as laid-back ambiance.

At once serene and cozy, richly-hued guest rooms feature special touches like Herman Miller desk chairs, Bodum coffee presses and Aveda bath products. Request a room facing the pool area (or better yet, nab a cabana) on a Friday night and experience “Dive In”—short films projected poolside amid cocktail-slurping throngs.

From innovative entertainment to attentive service, recycling programs to pet-friendliness, Hotel Zoso offers modern thinking amid all the nostalgia.

Rooms start at US$199 per night.

hotelzoso.com