
In summer, it’s easy to wander the well-marked, mossy trails along Maligne Canyon’s craggy edges near Jasper, Alta. During winter, however, a visit to the canyon is a different matter.
Descend to the canyon floor, stand on the river’s frozen surface and gaze up at soaring blue-green ice waterfalls and towering cliffs dusted with frost. With the prospect of thin ice underfoot, it’s not a trip to do alone.
Several tour operators including Jasper Adventure Centre offer guided canyon ice walks. Guides share geological facts, point out a pack rat’s collection in a cliff face cubby and encourage children to crawl through small tunnels formed by the ice. Each guest gets a pair of heavy boots and special ice cleats, so it’s easy to stay upright as you wind your way along the river ice, single-file, behind your guide who steers clear of trouble spots.
Look for landmarks only visible in winter. The “Angel Ice Fall” is where climbers are usually spotted, dangling from ropes and ice picks, inching their way up and down the frozen wall. Further along is a majestic column of ice known as “The Queen of Maligne.” Standing beneath this glinting slab of frozen splendour is enough to make anyone feel insignificant. Around another turn is “The Cathedral,” a circular cavern formed by ancient swirling waters and ice. At “The Mouse Hole,” warm air blows softly outward from a huge underground cave system, dusting nearby rocks with delicate snowflakes and hoarfrost.
At different points along the way, dripping water has actually formed opaque ice curtains thick enough to wander behind. It’s like looking through frozen funhouse mirrors.
Jasper Adventure Centre also offers moonlight canyon icewalks. The eerie beauty of the blue-green ice heightened by the moon’s reflections and the sound of water rushing underfoot can also be heard in the evening’s stillness. It’s an unsettling sensation that is usually muffled during the day. Even the sound of snow crushing underfoot sends thunderous echoes up the canyon walls at night.
Jasper Maligne Canyon Icewalk
When to go Between January and mid-March
Tour length Three hours
Cost Adults, $55; children under 12, $27.50.
Gear and transportation Book through Jasper Adventure Centre and they supply heavy boots, ice cleats and transportation from hotels. (800-565-7547)
Canmore Grotto Canyon Icewalk
Banff Johnston Canyon Icewalk
Tour length Four hours
Cost Adults, $62; children under 12, $40.
Gear and transportation Both of these icewalks can be booked through Banff Adventures Unlimited. Tours includes pickup and drop-off, ice cleats and hiking poles, hot chocolate and snacks. (800-644-8888)
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