Bar none, the best south-facing view of Montreal I have ever seen is from room 2312 of the Intercontinental Hotel.

From the moment I walked in, I couldn’t pull myself away from the incredible picture windows, which looked out over all of Old Montreal, the St-Laurence River, Jean Drapeau Island (site of the Formula 1 Grand Prix), and beyond.

As the sun began to set and the scene became suffused with pink light, my friend Shannon and I popped her iPod into the room’s docking station, opened a bottle of wine, and curled up on the window ledge, marvelling at the view until the sky grew dark and the iconic “Farine Five Roses” sign began flashing in the distance.

The $14-Million Facelift

Although the 25-storey Intercontinental Hotel has been open since 1991, the hotel recently underwent a $14 million renovation, shaking off some of its previous conservatism and embracing a softer, more whimsical look.

The transformation is evident as soon as you enter the hotel, gliding up to the first-floor lobby on an escalator next to a wall of birch bark and faux beaver fur panels, evocative of New France. In the lobby, where the birch bark panels continue, the work of local artists is on display.

Down the hall, the hotel’s new restaurant, Osco!, is positioned to look out onto the playful multicoloured glass panels of the Palais de Congrès and leafy Place Riopelle (look for the Riopelle painting in the restaurant, hung in homage to the great Quebecois artist). In the floors above, the rooms have been remodelled too—all 357 of them—with rich and cozy fabrics of deep burgundy, mahogany brown and soft white.

Let the “Green Fairy” Work her Magic

For a truly unique experience, try the Sarah B. absinthe bar in the lobby. Named after Sarah Bernhardt (whose ghost is rumoured to haunt the premises), the bar serves up the anise-flavoured spirit using traditional silver spoons and absinthe fountains imported from Europe.

Sit at the bar on one of the green leather stools (they look a bit like oversized macaroons), or retreat to one of the plush and private “Green Fairy” rooms. A glass of the bohemian beverage will run you between $8 and $12.

Sleep Tight

Rooms are surprisingly affordable. The least expensive, which are located on the lower levels of the hotel, go for $139 in the low season. If you’re sharing a room with someone, and you both like cocktails, an extra $50 per night will get you access to the exclusive Intercontinental Club Lounge, where you can enjoy free continental breakfast, computer access, and as many free cocktails as you want during Happy Hour.

If money is no object, spring for the most sensational room in the hotel: the Honeymoon Suite. Located at the top of the hotel’s turret, the suite has a separate bedroom and sitting room, and affords guests a 180-degree view of the city.

Although if the newlywed bride is anything like me, she might just want to spend the entire night staring out at the incredible view.