Nov
20
2009

Maskanoo Festival

A profile of Maskanoo, a new festival in Turks and Caicos that combines the traditions of Masquerade and Junkanoo

Just before daybreak on Christmas morning, under the pale moonlight on the Caribbean islands of Turks and Caicos, people clad in patchy costumes and hand-made masks rally in their neighbourhood.

Beats are pounded on a large drum; a nail is scraped along a carpenter saw. Box guitars, harmonicas and handmade horns fill the warm air.

Writhing to the beat, the group marches down the street, moving from home to home as an amber sunrise creeps onto the horizon and Masquerade reaches its crescendo.

An African tradition dating back to the 1500s, the celebration commenced every Christmas—the only time slaves could publicly celebrate their identity and art. To fully revel in their temporary freedom, they disguised themselves to avoid persecution later and followed the African rhythms from settlement to settlement.

Committed to remembering their roots, islanders kept celebrating Masquerade, even after emancipation in 1834.

Today, Masquerade—also known as Massin’ in Turks and Caicos—is fading fast to a familiar script: the young aren’t interested and there are fewer elders every year.

But David Bowen is too proud to let a cultural legacy disappear. The Turks and Caicos cultural director is reviving the celebration with Maskanoo, a modern day incarnation that inspires locals to get festive on Christmas morning across the island nation. The new festival also encourages residents and hotels to introduce visitors with the same gusto.

“It’s all about involving people,” says Bowen. “We don’t want any barriers or any bleachers. If you want to dance, jump in. Grab a party horn or something and just have fun.”

Maskanoo kicks off at 5 p.m. on December 26 on the Grace Bay strip in Providenciales, the island's commercial heart. Get there early for the grand parade, music, cultural performances and fireworks that are sure to go late into the evening.

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