IF ONLY ALL old hotels were this lucky. For its 100th birthday, the former Dufferin Hotel, long the choice of Canadian Pacific Rail workers and, more recently, a clientele that the suburban club crowds of nearby Granville Street referred to as “sketchy,” has been lovingly restored as the Moda Hotel.

But the striking six-story ivory heritage block is much more than a pleasing budget option in one of the country’s priciest hotel cities (a commendable achievement on its own). Since April, guests staying in one of the 57 rooms have been able to get their night started without ever leaving the lobby, courtesy of the cozy Uva Wine Bar next door, an exercise of modernist restraint in a historic space (put up designer wallpaper, leave the century-old terrazzo floors).

Run by Sebatien Le Goff, formerly of Lumiere and one of the city’s wine gurus, Uva has taken a page out of the wildly popular Salt Tasting Room in Gastown, where artisanal cured meats, local oysters and fine cheeses trump more elaborate cuisine—that is, until a kitchen opened last month, so expect more choice… especially with the addition of Cibo, the hotel’s fine dining Italian room that opened in late summer.

The Moda complex gets another tenant later this year, with the addition of the Red Card sports lounge where flat-screen TVs and microbrews will appeal to guests more accustomed to cheering than charcuterie.

Prices start at $109 in the off-season, and $159 otherwise.

modahotel.ca