
Museums can be so boring. Peering in on relics behind glass windows is not my idea of a good time, no matter how fascinating the relics may be.
The Museum of Anthropology in Vancouver ain’t no fun-filled playground, but I’m fascinated every time I go there. Yes, there are some behind-the-glass artifacts, but the rest of the place is much more alive. Did I mention the 79,900 square foot building was designed by Canada’s favourite architect, Arthur Erickson?

Before even going inside, I skip around to the left of the entrance and into the Haida House complex, replicating a Haida village from the 19th century. (The Haida people are from the Queen Charlotte Islands in northern B.C., now being called its original name, Haida Gwaii.)
Gorgeous totem poles, a family dwelling and a mortuary house are neighboured by totem poles carved by some of the most well-known First Nations names up and down the northwest coast.

If there’s a celebrity in Haida culture, he is it. There is lots of Bill Reid goodness here and even more inside. Walk through the entrance, down the ramp and then turn right. But don’t bump into the massive raven perched atop some odd characters.
This enormous carving, called The Raven and the First Men, is made from a block of laminated yellow cedar and is mega famous: you might recognize it from the Canadian $20 bill.

First Nations culture is definitely the superstar at MOA, including the Haida, Musqueam, Saanich, Tsartlip, Kwakwaka'wakw, Gitxsan and Nisga'a nations.
Don’t expect a typical museum layout, though. I love walking into the Great Hall, with its 15 metre high windows, and meandering among the totem poles and giant carvings from the northwest coast nations. Now that’s my idea of a museum.
The Great Hall also hosts some groovy events. A highlight of mine has been the Coastal First Nations Dance Festival at the beginning of the year, bursting with First Nations dance by the Dancers of Damelahamid and colourful regalia from all over the western coast of Canada and countries like New Zealand.
I constantly keep my eye on the temporary exhibits that run throughout the year. I’d say the Samoan tattoo exhibit that ran in 2009, called Tatau: Samoan Tattooing and Global Culture, tops my list of things I’ve seen. Seeing the process of tattooing an entire body was eye opening.
Admission is $14 for adults, $12 for students/seniors, $35 flat fee for families, $7 for everyone on Tuesdays from 5-9 pm, and free for kids under six.
Although she has a weakness for travel, Lori Henry is always happy to come home to Vancouver. Her work can be found in magazines around the world and scattered online. She is currently working on a book about dancing her way across Canada.
Deb Hird
Excellent article and the pictures along with it sure make me want to see it for myself. You didn't miss anything, even the map is wonderful to make the trip a bit easier to plan! Thanks!
Lori Henry
Thanks, Deb. I'm really glad you found the article useful. It is definitely worth the visit!
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