The New Quebecois Comfort Foods

 Montreal chefs are shaking up traditions and creating new twists on classic French-Canadian dishes

From duck confit tourtière to foie gras poutine, Montréal chefs are battling winter with high-end riffs on traditional French-Canadian classics. Find out where to go for these delectable delights

Poutine at Au Pied de Cochon

Traditionalists swear that poutine should involve just three ingredients: fries, cheese curds and gravy. But the fat-loving team at Au Pied de Cochon has managed to create a new Montréal culinary institution by adding a fourth ingredient. After just a few heavenly bites of the foie gras poutine ($23), you’ll already be feeling the need to hit the gym. At least you will when you remember that the delicious fries are cooked in duck fat. If you like to watch the artery-plugging theatre up close, sit at the bar. It faces the open-concept kitchen and lets your eyes feast while your belly takes a break.

Pouding Chômeur at Bistro Cocagne

Alexandre Loiseau, executive chef at the stylishly spartan Bistro Cocagne in Montréal’s Plateau Mont-Royal district, hated pouding chômeur when he was a kid. Yet he was reluctant to ignore the regional dish. He started experimenting and came up with the recipe he serves today—a moist cake with a satisfying crust that’s been baked over a layer of caramelized brown sugar, topped with homemade maple or spiced ice cream ($15). The dish, which easily feeds two, is served in a stainless-steel pot.

Tourtière at La Cantine

With its vintage 1970s lights, loud wallpaper and orange pleather booths, La Cantine is a kitschy trip back in time. The menu is equally unforgettable, reading like a snack shack board written by a trust fund kid (wild boar pogos, anyone?). Those seeking a twist on a real French-Canadian classic should go straight for the duck confit and wild mushroom tourtière ($21). Traditionally, tourtière is a plain meat pie made with beef or pork, and this rich reinvention is a delight.

Paté Chinois at Le Vallier

What the Quebecois call “paté chinois” the rest of us know as shepherd’s pie: layers of ground beef, corn and mashed potatoes. A speciality at the Le Vallier restaurant in Old Montréal, the delectable dish is made with duck meat instead of beef, and served with a side of homemade tomato ketchup. Luckily for your dinner companion, a single order ($18.50) is usually enough to share. The atmosphere is cozy and inviting. Picture the 1950s appeal of pumpkin-coloured walls, teak reliefs and Life Saver-coloured glass globe lights.

Jos. Louis at La Fabrique

For those poor souls who’ve never tried a Jos. Louis, get to a corner store, toute suite! The cellophane-wrapped chocolate sponge cakes stuffed with whipped cream and coated with milk chocolate are a Quebecker’s snack food institution. Once you’ve sampled the original, head over to the urban and youthful La Fabrique bistro to try its upscale version: a gooey chocolate fondant with a pastry cream filling and rich chocolate sauce ($9).