When the U.S. Army closed the Presidio of San Francisco base in 1994, it shut down the country's oldest continuously operating military station. With the big guns decommissioned, the question became what to do with 1,500 acres of prime real estate at the foot of the Golden Gate Bridge.

Congress wanted to turn it into parkland, part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area, but at the same time, it had to be financially independent.

The solution, as it turned out, was simple: Darth Vader and baked brie.

Under an ambitious public/private partnership, the National Park Service now administers the stunning coastline, and the Presidio Trust has transformed the old barracks into cozy rentals and upscale business properties.

With George Lucas's head office as an anchor tenant, the Presidio has seen a remarkable revival, perfectly balancing commercial vitality with public access. Not to be outdone, the Walt Disney family opened a state-of-the-(animated)-art museum last year.

Elegant restaurants abound, the area is packed with beautiful people carrying surfboards and riding rented bicycles. Those driving are treated to rows of free parking.

Although it's still dotted with historic artillery, the only thing left to defend in the Presidio is the gourmet good life and enough recreational opportunities to make even the most devoted soldier go AWOL.

Experience the Presidio yourself by checking out my favourite spots in this historic neighbourhood:
 

Walking Tour of Baker Beach and Golden Gate Bridge

No Presidio day is complete without a little exercise, so take a stroll along the beach and then make the six-kilometre round-trip pilgrimage across the iconic Golden Gate Bridge.

Planet Granite Climbing Gym

Located in "The Glass Palace," a nickname given while it was still a military facility, the climbing gym features 25,000 square feet of space, 115 different routes and expansive views of San Francisco Bay.

Crissy Field Center

One of the foremost environmental education facilities in the U.S., the centre has a wide variety of hands-on programs for kids.

The Walt Disney Family Museum

This is a Disney museum for grown-ups—more about the man than the mouse. Displays include early sketches, original character models and Walt Disney's description of how "we formed a little corporation."

La Terrasse

Unpretentious French elegance with views of Alcatraz, the Golden Gate Bridge and the East Bay. Excellent seafood, fun cocktails and wood-fired pizzas with innovative toppings (prosciutto and arugula, anybody?).

Letterman Digital Arts Center

Otherwise known as the epicentre of the Lucasfilm empire, and despite beautifully updated buildings and grounds, there's no museum or public tours. But if you're quiet, sometimes late at night you can hear a Wookiee cry.

SenSpa

More than just a place for a soak, SenSpa offers aromatherapy wraps, nutritional coaching, Ayurvedic treatments and a cross-cultural smorgasbord of international massage and wellness routines.

Presidio Social Club

Located in a former barracks, the Club combines a fun atmosphere with new takes on old classics. Try the Kobe beef Sloppy Joe or the oven-roasted pears covered in melted blue cheese. Brunch is a winner, too; order the Gruyere toasts or the caramel sticky buns.