The Rio Grande Experience

by Dawn Matheson
May 11th, 2009

Raft your way through plantation history and Jamaica’s beautiful countryside

THIS LAZY TWO-HOUR float down the Rio Grande river, from the foothills of the Blue Mountains to the bay at Port Antonio, provides a cool break from beach and bathers. Originally used to transport bananas from inland plantations to the harbour, river rafting became sport when Errol Flynn popularized it by challenging his guests to moonlight raft races, or so the story goes.

Today, the 30-foot bamboo rafts carry two guests, guided by licensed barefoot raft captains that are skilled with long poles and conversation. The 13-kilometre, lush meander traces a shoreline crammed with wild sugarcane, flowering poincianas and tall banyan trees. The trip also features a sandbar stopover, where you can arrange a feast of curried goat, fried dumplings, fire-roasted breadfruit and pepper-pot soup, cooked over an open fire by Miss Wissy and her legendary mother, Miss Betty, who has lugged her pots and pans 40 minutes through the bush to this spot since 1979. “The only way here is raft or ankle express,” she quips. (Don’t forget to bring a bathing suit for a post-lunch dip in the calm waters alongside the canteen.)

Tours can be arranged from most hotels and resorts in Ocho Rios area; the trip starts at Berrydale and ends at Rafters Rest, Port Antonio. Tours coast approx. US$72 per raft, plus tip for the captain. Lunch is not included, and you need to call Miss Wissy’s Canteen in advance to make arrangements: 876-389-8826.

DON’T MISS: The ‘mannish water,’ a mysterious concoction of vegetables, banana and goat testicles that promises virility.