The first thing I notice are the gigantic dog photos on the walls and the pooches curled up at the foot of patio tables, but none of them are smoking.

Other than the name and staying true to its French cuisine roots, The Smoking Dog Bistro in Kitsilano has transformed from a traditional French restaurant to a laid back version with a more neighbourly vibe.

Approachable French Menu

To start, the food is accessible. As much as I love France, the cuisine there makes me feel like an amateur eater. How can I be an amateur at something I’ve done since I was a couple of years old?

Voila the best of both worlds: the French Chef has the technique to effortlessly make traditional plates like Lobster Bisque ($10), Salade Niçoise ($16) and Steak Frites ($15), yet keeps the heartier dishes like Pepper Steak ($29) and Roasted Duck ($19) on the lighter side.

It’s like a Vancouver twist on French cuisine, and it’s a beautiful thing. Chef Pascal Georges bases his dishes on the traditional fare he made in the south of France, but adapts them to Vancouver’s obsession with fresh plates. I dub it, “French Light.”

Welcoming Atmosphere

Even more important than the food, if that’s possible, is the welcoming atmosphere that’s usually absent from French restaurants. First time owners Jean Séguin and Judith Andrews prove that you don’t have to be restaurateurs to make diners come back for more.

(Well, Jean told me that they’ve both fired each other many times during the process, so I guess there were a few kinks to iron out!)

The Meal

I sat happily for dinner with a glass of rosé (wine by the glass is $7-$12) and a group of inquisitive diners. We wanted to try it all.

The staff were game to bring us almost every appetizer on the menu—which we democratically shared. The standout for me being the Potato Tarte with Smoked Salmon ($13). The table favourites, though, went to the Mimosa Salad ($8), a tart little number perfect on a hot summer evening, and the fries ($5 as a side), which just might become bigger than the Beatles.

I stayed simple with the Risotto ($16) for a main and was rewarded with a creamy yet ultra light dish that wasn’t heavy enough to make me forget dessert.

In fact, we ordered most of the dessert menu and put in a great effort to maintain restraint. There were a few hand slaps over the Vanilla Crème Brulée ($7) and Tarte Tatin ($8), but that’s to be expected, no?

Encore!

Don’t worry, we all left as friends with a pinkie promise to come back again. We can, too, because the prices are as approachable as the atmosphere.